![]() ![]() We tracked down local farmers’ markets, discovered overlooked osteria, and took walks on sea-kissed coastal paths that made the world feel better again. It became our quickest access to the sea, and we were fortunate to make several getaways there to de-stress, tune out the bad news, and absorb its local rhythms. And that’s why it’s cool.ĭuring the pandemic, Liguria no longer saw our rearview mirror. But this crescent-shaped region arcing across the Ligurian Alps and down to the sea along the Mediterranean’s northwestern coast is chock full of hidden gems and quiet greenery, and has been supporting Slow Tourism projects long before Slow Tourism was a byword for cool. Yes, Liguria has tourist towns with villas plastered in trompe l’oeil and villages cascading down to the azure sea, a scene so achingly color saturated it looks like a photoshopped screensaver. In a nutshell, Liguria was lame.Īs it turns out, we were wrong. ![]() ![]() You mean where our grandparents honeymooned in the 1920s? It recalls the Italo-American schmaltz and aristocratic English swanning that we avoid at all costs. Genoa is a gritty industrial port with a tawdry medieval core, a jarring Wellbutrin-induced port redesign, and dangerously dilapidated infrastructure. Cinque Terre, a UNESCO site, is overrun with package tour groups and suffers all the problems of Insta mass tourism. Tourists with a hunger for the new and authentic stopped going to Liguria long ago. There’s no reason to stop, I convinced myself. Every time we did, I cringed a little at the glory of it all in the rearview mirror. Its glistening bays, cliff-dangling villages, olive groves, and vineyards tumbling to the sea were not enough to stop us from venturing deeper into the boot. So on our regular road trips from our home in Zurich‚ Switzerland - only a 2.5-hour drive from the Italian border - my husband and I always sped past Italy’s northwest regione of Liguria. You can only get that “real” Italia by plunging south, we thought. It was too touristy and not “Italian” enough. Jump to Adam Graham’s top recommendations in Liguria. ![]()
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